Archive for the ‘Maya’ Tag

Happy Halloween!   14 comments

There are plenty of opportunities in Oregon to capture fog in all its variations.

There are plenty of opportunities in Oregon to capture fog in all its variations.

Tomorrow is Halloween, a holiday I’ve always been of two minds on.  On one hand, I’ve had many fun Halloweens.  We used to decorate the basement in the house I grew up in, and on a couple occasions I remember parties down there with all my friends from school and the neighborhood.  We would run around all amped up on sugar, bobbing for apples and playing pranks.  The evening was capped off by sitting on the cement walls bordering the backyard, that huge oak tree forming a black silhouette in the center, telling ghost stories.

On the other hand, since reaching adulthood, I haven’t really taken to the holiday like when I was a kid.  To me, it is a holiday for children, and never has had the enduring spirit of Christmas.  It seems a little ridiculous how excited some adults get.  I’ve even cynically thought of it as simply an excuse to get drunk at Halloween parties.  Am I too much the curmudgeon?  Probably, haha!  Anyway, here are a few shots I managed to find with a more or less spooky mood to them.

Happy Halloween!

A termite tower in Botswana's Okavango Delta takes on a sinister aspect next to an equally spooky looking acacia tree.

A termite tower in Botswana’s Okavango Delta takes on a sinister aspect next to an equally spooky looking acacia tree.

The streets at night in Campeche, a colonial town in Mexico, are very atmospheric.

The streets at night in Campeche, a colonial town in Mexico, are very atmospheric.

 

More good old Oregon fog.  I don't think this shot is that scary looking.  The light was rather magical but not scary.

More good old Oregon fog. I don’t think this shot is that scary looking. The light was rather magical but not scary.

Mayan temples, such as this one at Tikal, Guatemala, don't necessarily look scary.  That is, until you realize what happened  just inside that small doorway - human sacrifice!

Mayan temples, such as this one at Tikal, Guatemala, don’t necessarily look scary. That is, until you realize what happened just inside that small doorway – human sacrifice!

Near dark deep in a Columbia River Gorge side-canyon, fog and water combine to create a ghostly aparition.

Near dark deep in a Columbia River Gorge side-canyon, fog and water combine to create a ghostly aparition.

The only shot like this I got in Africa, these scavenging Maribou storks are perched above an elephant carcass at sunset.  Don't worry, the elephant was not the victim of poachers in this case.

The only shot like this I got in Africa, these scavenging marabou storks are perched above an elephant carcass at sunset. Don’t worry, the elephant was not the victim of poachers in this case.

The Land of the Maya IV   Leave a comment

Guatemala

A misty view of some of the major temples at Tikal, the huge ancient Mayan city in Guatemala.

This is the last of my posts on the land of the Maya.  I may continue to post on my swing through Central America, but once you have traveled southward into the highlands straddling the Honduras – Nicaragua border, you’ve left the Maya behind.

A bird of paradise flower blooms in a Central American cloud forest

I visited Tikal in the Peten of northern Guatemala.  This is without a doubt the most impressive Mayan ruins I’ve been to.  I already posted on the birds of Tikal and they are, along with the other wildlife, one of the best things about the ancient city.  Tikal lies in thick jungle, with plenty of room between the temples and pyramids to get lost in nature.

I stayed in El Remate, the nearest village to the ruins.  Many people stay in Flores, a much bigger, busier place that involves a longer drive to Tikal.  In El Remate, you can visit near the end of the day or very early in the morning, thus beating the crowds.  Simply take a taxi or hop in one of the many vans that ply the route to Tikal.  It’s a quiet village sitting on the huge Peten Itza lake, and lacks resorts & nightlife.  But that’s the way I like it.  By the way, there is also a hotel near the gate of Tikal, but then you’re not staying in a village, not soaking up much culture.  And Remate is cheaper.  My humble little room, but with it’s own private bathroom, cost $7/night.  A huge steak dinner one night cost $5.

On my first day, fresh from the Belize border, it was cloudy with showers.  I almost decided to wait until morning but then on a whim caught a ride up to the ruins, arriving less than two hours before they closed.  It was a great move, as I got some nice moody shots of the temples in misty, foggy conditions.  Also the weather had scared off most of the tourists.  Tikal gets plenty of tourist traffic, but the ruins are large and spread out, so you can always get away from people if you need to.  I’m not going to detail much about Tikal, since it is an easy thing to look up.  I’ll just say that this place has some fun (and steep!) temple climbs.

I thought about doing a trek in this area of Guatemala, to the relatively newly discovered ruins of El Mirador, deep in the jungle.  But I didn’t, thinking of all those countries left to explore.  You can trek or ride horses to El Mirador.  Check around Flores for guides.  It’s pretty exciting to think about exploring the remote Peten, which is prime hunting ground for uncovering new Mayan ruins, and as a bonus hosts abundant wildlife.  It’s also a drug-smuggling corridor, but I still want to return some day for an adventure.

So I headed south, stopping on the way at a wonderful farm-stay called Finca Ixobel.  It’s written up in Lonely Planet (of course), and has good, healthy food and truly excellent coffee. It’s situated in lovely partly forested country that just begs to be explored on horseback.  And so I did!  They have some horses and a good guy to take you out.  My mount, Frojo, looked lazy and a bit too small to me, but boy did he ever prove me wrong.  He was a real pistol, wanting to run more than I could handle!  You can also hike at Ixobel; I did the trek up a small mountain covered in beautiful subtropical forest.  I love this part of Guatemala.

A carved stela at the Mayan ruins of Quirigua in Guatemala suggests extra-terrestrial influences.

Tropical flower

A tropical flower blooms in the forest of central Guatemala.

I stopped at a fairly small Mayan site called Quirigua, in the far south of Guatemala just off the main highway.  While the temples are small, it contains some of the nicest carvings I’ve seen.  There are tall stelae (sculpted towers) and squat zoomorphic sculptures (see images).  There are also carved calenders, and together with Copan just across the border, it represents an excellent original source for the Mayan calender.  I don’t believe the Mayans thought the world would end in 2012, but there is so much we don’t know that they might have known.  So who knows?  We’ll find out in December.

I went on to El Salvador, but concentrated on other things (nature, surfing) while I was there.  So I won’t detail it here.  It is certainly a tough country in which to travel, and the most poverty-stricken in Central America.  The surfing set mostly is unaware of the reality there, since they plop down on the coast and don’t travel around.

Looping back into the blessedly cool hill country of western Honduras, I visited Copan.  My last Mayan ruin, I wanted some great pictures.  Unfortunately the light did not cooperate.  But I did get very close to one of the many scarlet macaws roosting in the trees near the entrance.

The little town of Copan Ruinas near the Mayan city of the same name is quite charming, with a nice cool highland climate and attractive architecture.  I met an American guy there who moved there from Texas and bought a coffee finca (farm).  It was interesting talking to him, finding out how he made it work.  His relatively high elevation means he has to find just the right genetic mix to grow coffee that survives, let alone tastes good.

Copan has some very impressive carvings.  There is a ball court flanked with carvings of macaws.  One of the more unique structures is the Hieroglyphic Stairway, which is the longest hieroglyph in the Mayan world.  The story told is still being deciphered.  Much of the artifacts and structures have been damaged or taken away by the Copan River. Copan was occupied for about 2000 years, and for much of that time was subject to flooding.  I always find it funny when some people remark that the new world is very poor in culture and history compared with the old world.  I guess they just don’t know.

A zoomorphic sculpture at Quirigua, a Mayan site in Guatemala. It is about 7 feet tall and 10 feet across.

Mayan Ruins

The highlands around the Mayan ruins of Copan in Honduras are made up of rolling hills and coffee farms.

Copan

The famous Hieroglyphic Stairway at the Mayan ruins of Copan in Honduras represent the longest untold story in ancient Mayan history.

Well that does it for the Maya.  I will always have deep admiration and respect for their stunning achievements, especially in astronomy and mathematics.  But this trip really opened my eyes to the Maya as they exist today.  The Maya who are living a simple agricultural lifestyle in Guatemala are not very different than their ancestors.  The ancient Mayan civilization after all, consisted of a few priests and elite while the bulk of the population were farmers and laborers.

This makes me wonder how many of these simple folk living in poor villages have, lying dormant within them, the ability to conceive of and accomplish great things, just as their ancestors did.  How often is a life lived, however fulfilling it is, where this latent potential is unrealized?  And how could I tell by just meeting them on my travels?  It’s interesting to think about.

A macaw perches near the entrance to Copan, the Mayan ruins in Honduras. Appearing in carvings in the ancient city, they remain to this day, roosting in the trees above the crumbling temples.

Copan

Large carvings of scarlet macaw heads adorn the side of the ball court in the ancient Mayan city of Copan. They would have been painted brightly.

The Maya II: Guatemalan Highlands   4 comments

This is a continuation of my series on travel to the land of the Maya in Central America.  I flew into Cancun, and then worked my way down through the peninsula (see last post), traveling through Chiapas and entering Guatemala from the west.  Hope you enjoy the photos!  But please be aware that not only are they small files, but that it’s not okay to download them without contacting me for permission.  Clicking the photos will take you to my website where purchase of much larger files is easy as pie.

There is no way to travel through this area without being impressed not only with the Maya, but also towns with well-preserved colonial architecture.  I visited Campeche in the Yucatan, and San Cristobal de Las Casas in Chiapas.  Both are the home of incredible Spanish colonial architecture and each have their own character.

Campeche is, despite its spectacular architecture, relatively free of heavy tourist influence, while San Cristobal, maybe because it is smaller, has more of a tourist feel to it.  Also, Campeche is on the sea and Cristobal is not.  Both towns, however, are places where you can stroll the streets with plenty of photo opportunities, plenty of places to eat and drink, plenty of people-watching.  As a bonus, the two towns sit in an area of perfectly balmy climate.

A couple gets close near the cathedral in Campeche on the Yucatan Peninsula.

The colonial architecture of Campeche, on the Gulf of Mexico, is one of the highlights of a visit to Mexico’s Yucatan Peninsula.

I After San Cristobal, I headed for Palenque in Chiapas, and toured that site amongst plenty of other tourists.  Aside from Chichen Itza, this is the most crowded Mayan site I visited, but it was a gorgeous day and I did not really bother getting there too early.  The occasional crowd never bothers me, since I make a point to get well off the beaten track on more than enough occasions.

The carvings at Palenque are very well preserved.  In general, you must go to museums to see well-preserved Mayan carved panels and stelae (stone pillars).  This is because the weather has really done a number on the artwork left at the actual sites.  But Palenque and a few other cities have plenty of artwork that is stunning in its detail.  Also, Palenque is set in gorgeous wooded hills, with a stream flowing right through it.  Go to the edge of the ruins and check out the jungle; you might see some wildlife.

The Temple of Inscriptions at Palenque, an ancient Mayan city in Chiapas, Mexico.

Leaving Palenque, I entered Guatemala.  The transition was definitely noticeable.  No more air conditioned buses and vans, no more leaving when scheduled.  Guatemala is a fairly chaotic country, full of people and energy, more traditional & not nearly as rich as Mexico.  North Americans who only travel to Mexico think that country is third world.  They have no idea.  If they were to continue south to Guatemala and beyond, then they would understand what third world actually means.

I don’t say this to denigrate these places.  It’s just a simple fact.  Mexico is more modern, easier to travel through than most Central American countries, much easier.  These days Mexico might be more dangerous in places, because of the drug war.  But it is most certainly more kind to travelers of all types than Guatemala (and let’s not even talk about El Salvador!).

A tricked out chicken bus in Guatemala.

So there I was in the highlands, waiting for the “chicken bus”  I had chosen at random to attract enough passengers for us to set out.  After a time, we were heading towards Xela (Quetzaltenango), the main city in the highlands.  By the way, to pronounce “X “in Spanish, you simply say “Sh”.  So Xela is “Shela”.  That chicken bus was taking me into another world, a parade of busy mountain villages with  hordes of people and energy.  There is nowhere on the planet quite like this, though parts of South Asia’s mountain terrain are closest.  The markets alone are enough to set this place apart, and the Maya culture is as dominant as it is anywhere in Latin America.

These Maya are different than those in the Yucatan.  It seems that each village brings a different dress, a different set of customs.  They all speak different languages, have a different look.  They do all share many similarities, but they’re not nearly as monocultural as the Yucatan Maya.  And another thing I noticed: in these highlands where you find so many traditional Mayan villages, you will be hard pressed to find any ancient Mayan ruins.  They’re all in the bordering lowlands and in Chiapas.  It seems that the big ancient Mayan cities were all built in the lowlands or hill country, whereas the modern Maya have been pushed into the highlands, where it is harder to make a living.  A simplistic observation with some exceptions I will admit, but the pattern is there.

A cool evening in a small town in the Guatemalan Highlands, with its white-washed church, is graced by a bright moon.

View from inside one of the colonial buildings surrounding the square in the town of Quetzaltenango (“Xela”) in the Guatemalan highlands.

The heart of Quetzaltenango (Xela) in the Guatemalan Highlands is its Parque Central.

Xela is a city surrounded by volcanoes, home to markets and many Spanish language schools.  Here the Maya are mixed in with other Guatemalans.  I enjoyed Xela’s central square (Parque Central), taking many photos.  I also was befriended by a few Mayan women in the market; they worried over me and made sure I was safely on a bus with my spendy camera gear.  I wanted to climb a volcano.  It was a tossup between the very active volcano Pacaya, and the highest mountain in Central America, Tajumulco.  I went with the highest one!

The sun rises over the Guatemalan highlands, as viewed from the summit of the highest mountain in Central America, Tajamulco.

We camped only 500 or so feet from the summit, so close that we reached the top just before sunrise next morning.  I managed to catch a pretty nice photo, the haze of the lower country setting a counterpoint to the intensely clear rising sun.  I visited the little village of Todos Santos Cuchumatan afterwards, managing to get my MP3 player stolen on the bus along the way.  But this was to be the only theft I’d suffer on the 3-month trip through Central America.

Todos Santos is fairly popular with travelers.  But it still feels way off the beaten track and the Maya there hold tight to their traditions.  The road is rough and the bus ride bouncy and long from Xela.  The town sits in steep terrain and by virtue of its elevation (8200 ft., 2500m.) is quite cool, especially at night (think wool blankets).  On the day I got there I walked uphill and soon ran into three Mayan girls who were chatty and friendly.  I spent some time with them, taking pictures, laughing, and sort of flirting.

A young and happy Mayan woman in Todos Santos, heart of the Mayan culture in the Guatemalan highlands.

A young Mayan lady high up in the Guatemalan highlands, in the village of Todos Santos.

Young men in Todos Santos Cuchumatan, in the Guatemalan Highlands, wear the tradtional colorful pants favored by the Maya in this region.

Colorful is a good way to describe the dress of most Mayan women, and these two were no exceptions.  What is different about this town, however, is the dress of the men.  Mayan men normally don’t bother with colorful dress, but here they tend to wear bright red & white striped pants, topped by a jaunty hat.  Even small boys wear this getup, and man are they ever cute!

After a few days relaxing along the shores of Lago Atitlan, I visited another remote town in the Ixil triangle, Nebaj.  From this town I hiked up a dirt track, following locals weighed down with incredible loads (from market) as they trekked across a pass and down into a beautiful valley.  There was a small village here, accessible only by foot.  As you might imagine, an agrarian, simple way of life prevails here, in utterly beautiful surroundings.

It was very warm during the day, cooling off a lot at night, just the way I like it.  (It takes a great amount of heat to get to me; same with cold.)  The night market at Nebaj was fantastic, with a whitewashed church, the bright moon, and some tasty and exotic (for me) treats all creating a magical atmosphere that just seemed to define the highlands.

Street food in a village square high up in the Guatemalan highlands includes unusual sweets.

The Ixil area drops off spectacularly to the east into central Guatemala.  I took a jam-packed van to an amazing place called Semuc Champey, passing one of the largest landslide scars I’ve ever seen.  The rainy season can see spectacular landslides on the rough roads that traverse the Guatemalan Highlands.  Once at Semuc Champey, I realized why it was listed in my guidebook.

A huge volume of re-deposited limestone (travertine) fills the river valley here.  It’s similar to what you find at places like Yellowstone’s Mammoth Hot Springs, but grey not white.  The river flows over, under and through all this limestone, forming a series of green, paradisical pools and waterfalls.  It is probably the most atmospheric swimming hole I’ve ever been to.

The clear pools at Semuc Champey in the Guatemalan highlands invite a cooling swim.

I was not done with the Maya.  From Semuc Champey I kept going east, heading for Lake Izabal.  But the roads turn into dirt through this area, and public transport just stops. So I hitched, something I did quite a bit of in my (much) younger days.  I was dropped off at a lonely junction where two dirt roads come together, and patiently waited under bluebird skies for any 4×4 to come by.  But it was Sunday and my wait was a long one.  No problem: the Mayan children from a village nearby kept me entertained.

Mayan children near the village of Cahabon in remote central Guatemala can’t stop laughing about having a stranger in their midst.

This is probably the most remote area I visited in Central America.  The people were nearly all Mayan, and were dirt poor.  I had stumbled upon it, and was leaving in the back of a pickup all too soon.  A definite negative was the state of their land.  Guatemala had seen fit to allow loggers to flatten the whole forest in this region some 15 or 20 years ago.  The trees are growing back, but so far are still quite small.  A mature tropical rainforest used to grow here, and it’s obvious the land and wildlife misses it.

My trip continued into eastern Guatemala, which was well on its way to becoming my favorite of Central America.  I continued my off-the-beaten track travels, staying on the shore of Lago Izabal where I took a small boat past dugongs and growler monkeys.  I also stayed at a jungle lodge along the Rio Dulce (my cabin was named Tucan).  But I was no longer in the land of the Maya.  I would return to Maya country in western Belize and northernmost Guatemala.  That’s the subject of the next post in this series.

The Maya I: Yucatan   Leave a comment

The beach and aqua Caribe at Sian Ka’an near Tulum, Yucatan Peninsula, Mexico.

This is the first of a series of themed travel articles, based on recent trips.  Central America is certainly not the easiest region to travel through, especially if like me you fall firmly on the budget side of things.  My trip there a couple years ago was alternately relaxing and chaotic, gorgeous and grimy, fascinating and overlong, steamy hot and refreshing.  Central America is a place of contrasts, and this contrast begins with the Maya: past and present.

I’ve always been interested in the Maya.  On my first trip to the Yucatan years ago I visited a couple of ancient Mayan sites (Chichen Itza & Tulum).  The experience of standing on top of the carved stone temples of Tulum, alone as the sun rose over the Caribbean, was truly amazing.  But the main thing that impressed me on that trip was the fact that the Maya have gone nowhere.  They still live in the area, despite what we all learn – that they disappeared along with their ancient culture hundreds of years ago.

A huge Mayan pyramid at the remote site of Calakmul in the southern Yucatan.

Although they are a shadow of their former selves in terms of power and influence, the Maya remain a people relatively unstained by the worst of modern culture.  I found them to be delightful people, even more so on this recent trip, where I visited the current Maya cultural heartland: the Guatemalan Highlands.

Visiting the Mayan ruins in the Yucatan involves leaving the beach resorts of Cancun & the Riviera Maya behind and striking inland.  There is one exception to this rule: Tulum.  The ruins at Tulum, though nowhere near as big or important as other sites, are by virtue of their seaside location spectacular.  Like some other popular Mayan ruins, Tulum is mobbed by tours which arrive starting in late morning and peaking in the hottest part of the day.

A cool inner chamber near the top of a Mayan temple provides a unique perspective.

The Mayan ruins of Xpuhil in the Yucatan, Mexico.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Arriving when they open is really the only reasonable plan for these popular sites.  With Tulum, you can do as I did and stay at one of the rustic beach “resorts” nearby.  The one in which I stayed in 2003 was the closest to the ruins.  My shack was on the beach (not facing the beach but actually surrounded by sand).  Inside was only a hammock and candle.  It cost me $12, and I was steps from the warm sea.  I don’t know how fancy things have gotten down there, but I imagine it’s suffered to some degree the scourge of “going upscale”.

I woke naturally at dawn, and hiked along the beach toward the ruins.  I clambered over rocks and reached the ruins by skirting around a fence.  The site was not open yet, and I was the only person there for some time, until one other guy, a Mexican, showed up.  He had apparently also walked in along the coast.  We didn’t say much to each other, and didn’t need to.  He just smiled at me in the golden light of sunrise.  We knew how lucky we were to be sharing that moment.  I was thinking about those Mayans who first caught sight of the Spaniards’ ships as they approached the New World.  Then I took a swim at the small sandy cove sitting at the base of Tulum’s walls.

A brown pelican (Pelecanus occidentalis) perches on a branch in Mexico’s Sian Ka’an Biosphere Reserve.

I also visited Chichen Itza on my first trip to the Yucatan, in 2003, and like Tulum, I wanted to beat the crowds.  I stayed in the nearby town of Valladolid.  This is the only real town close to the ruins, though there are (spendy) hotels near the gate.  But Vallodolid is a quaint town with good street food.  I’d much rather sit in the zocalo (town square) and people-watch while eating cheap and tasty ceviche than sit in a big hotel’s restaurant trying not to be late for a scheduled tour.  You can catch a cheap van to the ruins starting in the early morning, and easily arrive when the gates open.  This will get you there with hours to spend before the tour buses from Cancun arrive.

Many other Mayan sites pepper the Yucatan Peninsula, and if you rent a car you can do excellent loops using the fine city of Merida as a base.  You can visit ruins like Uxmal south of Merida, taking in some modern Mayan villages along the way.  Or loop north to the Gulf, passing numerous cenotes, most of them swimmable.

As day ends in Mexico, I naturally gravitate toward the Taco stand.

Cenotes were (and are) sacred to the Maya, representing as they do the only sources of fresh water on the sponge-like limestone landscape of the Yucatan.  They are essentially sinkholes, some open to the sky, some more cave-like, filled with fresh cool water.  The cenotes in this area are aligned along a massive structure that is the remnant of an enormous impact crater.  It was formed when the asteroid that killed the dinosaurs slammed into Earth 65 million years ago.

Swimming in a cenote is practically a requirement for visiting the Yucatan.  If you’re a diver you can take guided scuba trips into some cenotes.  This way you’ll get a strong feeling (maybe too strong for some) of what underwater cave diving is like.  My cenote dive was a true adventure, fascinating, unique, a little scary…a fantastic dive.

This is a fine trip, exploring the more popular Mayan sites in the northern Yucatan Peninsula.  But if you want a bit more adventure, and also the chance to see wildlife, make the southern Yucatan your goal.  I did this on my more recent trip, visiting the Sian Ka’an Biosphere Reserve, south of Tulum on the way.  You can stay right on the reserve in gorgeous tented cabins at Centro Ecologico de Sian Ka’an (Cesiak).  There are reasonably priced boat trips into the wetlands, and the beach is long and empty.  It’s not too expensive, but not backpacker-cheap either.  You might be able to swing a deal in Tulum town, and you’ll be able to catch a ride out there with them in their van.

But the mysterious ruins in the Peten were my destination.  Heading inland just before reaching Chetumal near the Belize border, I arrived in the town of Xpuhil.  Public transport is fairly reliable, since this is the route between Chetumal and Campeche.  There are simple lodgings in this small town, and a great Mayan site (Xpuhil) that you can walk to.  I considered this a warmup to the huge ancient Mayan city of Calakmul, south of Xpuhil.

I was forced to do something I sometimes resort to when I arrive in a place that is relatively untouristed, and without much of a plan.  I walked around looking for the few other tourists in town, and finally found a couple who wanted to visit Calakmul as well.  Then we simply asked around and found a guide to take us.  We left early in the morning, and drove down the lonely road through the flat jungle of the Peten.  We passed our first car and stopped.  They had just seen a jaguar on the road, but when we hurried onward it was already gone.

We arrived at Calakmul and were the only visitors.  A couple workers were using homemade brooms to sweep the stone walkways as we walked through the enormous site.  A large herd of wild pigs roamed the trees between the ruins.  Calakmul was one of the Maya world’s more important cities, rivaling Tikal in size.  In fact, Tikal and Palenque, two other famous sites of the Peten, were Calakmul’s fierce rivals.

The pyramids of Calakmul are truly gigantic, standing well up above the jungle.  The surrounding landscape is so flat that on very clear days you can see some of the pyramids at Mayan sites south across the Guatemalan border.  I imagined standing up there during the height of Mayan power, looking across the jungle to a rival city’s pyramids.  Would they be attacking my city soon?  We spent a few hours wandering about, checking out the ruins.  A few other visitors showed up, but we mostly had the place to ourselves.

A fine thing about being in Central America is the ready availability of fresh jugos (what we would call smoothies).

We ended up staying at a little “eco-resort” (really a campsite) on the way back.  There was a canopy platform there, accessible by hiking trail.  This is a tower with stairs you climb to an observation deck situated near the treetops.  This allows you to do some serious birdwatching.  I saw beautiful parrots, toucans and other birds.  While hiking I also came upon a group of Coatis, curious looking creatures that really don’t look much like any other animal.  The Peten is heaven for a naturalist.

A Mexican woman from southern Yucatan relaxes with her knitting on a perfect afternoon.

That evening we visited a cave where thousands and thousands of bats emerge at sunset.  What a trip!  Clouds of them, flying right past my head in a blur.  The image above is of a woman we met along the road, at a stop for drinks.  She was just sitting there knitting, and was very happy to exchange the local gossip with our guide (who she knew of course).  Typical Mexican flavor, so I had my camera out, and she was a very cooperative subject.

The wild jungle of the Peten stretches toward Guatemala from atop a pyramid at Calakmul in Mexico.

I love Mexico, and will be back there soon I hope.  I would love to go on an archaeological expedition into the Peten, either northern Guatemala or southern Mexico.  There are drug smugglers operating in this remote area, and penetrating it means trekking on foot through rough jungles.  But I know that not only is it a rich hunting ground for fresh discoveries of Mayan cities, but it is also home to Central America’s most diverse and abundant wildlife.  But this trip, in which I visited all the countries in Central America, was only just beginning.  I would visit many more Mayan sites, and also experience their culture in western Guatemala.  That’s the subject of the next post in this series.

The sun goes down behind an island in the lagoon at Sian Kaan Reserve on the Yucatan Peninsula in Mexico.

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