The Namib   2 comments

Namibia is a desert country in southern Africa.  That does not mean all of it is dunes & sand with no vegetation.  Most is in fact semi-arid country of the Kalahari “Desert”, and in the north it even starts to resemble standard African bush with a pronounced rainy season.  But the heart of Namibia is its desert, the spectacular Namib, with the largest and oldest sand dunes in the world.

The Namib Desert near Sossusvlei, Namibia.

 

Culturally the country is similar to South Africa in that it retains significant white influence.  This cultural flavor takes German form; it was occupied by them during colonial times, and there are many German natives of the country.  This means that the architecture, food and customs will often make you think you took a left turn on the way to Africa and landed in Frankfurt.  The country gained independence from South Africa after a prolonged war in 1989.  But Namibia is different than its southern neighbor in that there is not the same sort of acrimony between the races that still exists in today’s South Africa.  The country is so young that most people seem to have family members who fought in the war of independence.

This country is clean and safe, and perhaps in that lies its major drawback.  It’s terrain is not the only thing that makes it stand out from most African countries.  As in South Africa, Namibia does not create the feeling of being in “true Africa”.  The tribal towns in the north might be an exception to this.  So if you visit Namibia and have time for one other country, do not make it South Africa – too similar.  Choose a country like Zambia instead.

A rare rainbow appears over the dry grasslands of southern Namibia.

I’d been dreaming of coming to Namibia for years.  I knew as a geologist and lover of big empty landscapes that I would feel right at home.  I was not disappointed.  I saved Namibia for last on my recent 3-month trip to Africa, and (predictably) ran out of time before I was finished exploring.  Flying from Cape Town to Windhoek, Namibia’s ultra-clean, compact little capital city, I watched hundreds of miles of empty plains, canyons and lonely coast glide by underneath the wings.  The plane was full of Namibian roller-hockey players returning from their championship run in Singapore.

The weather was actually a bit rainy when we hit the ground, which is unusual for this part of the world.  But I was firmly into the rainy season, so it wasn’t too surprising.  After a night in Windhoek (the cleanest, most walkable city I’ve been to in a long long time), I headed south toward the Namib in my rental car.  One can easily get around Namibia in a regular sedan.  There are many gravel roads but they are well maintained.  If you want to go deep into northern Namibia, however, or off the beaten track anywhere, a 4×4 is necessary.

It was still drizzling, and I was hoping for great light in the desert because of the clouds.  Although it is only a 4-5 hour drive SW from Windhoek to the heart of Namib-Naukluft National Park at Sesriem, I left late and took the long way, swinging south and approaching from the south.  The landscape was some of the emptiest I had seen in Africa.  It reminded me of the empty areas in Nevada and a few other areas of the interior western U.S.  I experienced some dazzlingly beautiful light at sunset (image left), then spent the night at a funky little place run by a talkative Frenchwoman.  The town, called Maltahohe, was no more than a wide spot in the road, and the surrounding   countryside was as unpopulated as places get in this world.

The Namib’s dunes began to appear in the intense sunshine of the next morning (the storm had abruptly broken the previous evening).  At first I thought I was looking at mountains.  Then as I drew closer I noticed their smooth, reddish color.  Can that really be sand dunes?  Wow, I was amazed (and, sadly, I’m not easily amazed anymore).  At the little village of Sesriem, there is an excellent campsite that sits right at the gateway to the National Park.  The onsite restaurant is fine, and the views even better.  From there, I drove the paved road down the long valley to Sossusvlei, towering dunes on either side.

The animals of the Namib are one of its unique characteristics.  Stopping at one of the bigger dunes on the way to Sossusvlei, I hiked around and spotted a cute little lizard with a shovel on top of his head (image left), obviously for burrowing into the sand.From beetles to birds, reptiles to mammals, the creatures have fascinating adaptations to the extreme aridity.  This desert gets most of its moisture not from infrequent downpours as in other deserts, but from a moist fog that rolls in from the cold South Atlantic only a few miles away.  A decade or more can pass between rains, but when they do come, it can pour buckets.  Then small ponds and even lakes can appear in the ‘vleis’.

 

Note that these images are available for licensing or purchase as prints (framed or unframed) from my website, and if you click on an image you will be taken there.  If you do click an image and it does not take you to my website, that means you can copy the image, but for personal use only.  If you have any questions at all, please contact me.  Thanks so much for your interest and cooperation on this.

A shovelnosed lizard prowls his sandy home in the Namib Desert of Namibia.

There are numerous dried lake beds throughout the area, and these are called vleis.  Sossusvlei is one, and nearby Dead Vlei, with its stunning dead camelthorn trees, is another.  You may have seen pictures of Dead Vlei; it is the target of serious photographers from around the world.  I visited both.  Note you cannot drive there without a 4×4.  There are jeeps that will take you from the car park, but they don’t run all day.  So needing to stretch my legs anyway, I hiked in toward sunset.  This is Namibia’s most popular tourist attraction, but I saw only two other visitors there.

The light was not perfect for pictures, but I did get an expansive view of the dunes (image at top).  The dunes in the background are over 3000 feet high.  I rushed back to camp but it was still well after dark when I arrived.  Fortunately it was a simple matter of contacting the guard at his nearby house, and the gate was opened for me without any hassle.

Next morning I was out early.  A thin fog had swept inland overnight, and was laying over the dunes.  As the sun rose, so did the fog, and I grabbed a shot I doubted would turn out well.  The contrast was high, with washed out color.  But I was surprised when I looked at the picture later.  It makes, I think, for a starkly beautiful black and white image (below).  The dead camelthorn trees in the picture follow a now-abandoned water-course.

 

A thin fog lifts over the huge dunes of the Namib Desert as the sun rises.

 

I hiked up a moderately high dune, but after reaching the first peak, I realized that I didn’t have enough water to push on to the far summits.  It was tougher than I thought, humbling for an outdoors hiker guy like me.  But after stowing my shoes, I ran and skied/skipped down the dune yipping and yahooing all the way.  I rolled to a stop at the bottom laughing like a kid.  Exploring further, I loved how the dune grasses contrasted with the deep reds of the sand (image bottom).

I very much hope I can make it back here to this heart of the Namib, and with more time.  Perhaps it will be as a pro photographer, or even running a tour/workshop.  One thing I missed is doing some serious night sky observing.  I was simply too worn out to stay up late.  But there is at least one lodge near Sossusvlei with its own telescope.  So next time, I’ll make stargazing and night sky photography a priority.  I left Sossusvlei too soon, but I wanted to check out the Naukluft Mountains nearby.  So next post up: the spectacular Naukluft!

In the Namib Desert, a clump of dune grass takes root in a slightly more stable part of a red dune.

Advertisements

2 responses to “The Namib

Subscribe to comments with RSS.

  1. Congratulations, all are amazing * you’re a master *clap

    Regards

    Juno

Please don't be shy; your words are what makes my day!

Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in:

WordPress.com Logo

You are commenting using your WordPress.com account. Log Out / Change )

Twitter picture

You are commenting using your Twitter account. Log Out / Change )

Facebook photo

You are commenting using your Facebook account. Log Out / Change )

Google+ photo

You are commenting using your Google+ account. Log Out / Change )

Connecting to %s

%d bloggers like this: